Mother Daughter Adventure Chronicles IIb- Journey to Siem Reap

The next morning we set off for Siem Reap, about a six hour journey south by bus.  The streets were packed as we drove by in a tuk tuk at 7:30 in the morning and I couldn’t believe how many people were out and about at that hour of the morning!  Just strolling along the river, sitting in the park eating breakfast, and busy shopping at the markets.  The bus stop was also very busy with Cambodians and foreigners alike, all heading to Siem Reap to visit family or see the sights of Angkor Wat.  I slept most of the way but my mom was busy taking pictures.  I’m not sure how many of those will turn out, but she was so excited to see everything she had to try and capture it!  It’s true the sights on the drive from Phnom Pehn to Siem Reap are not your average drive through the countryside- everyone was busy transporting goods for their New Years celebrations or already celebrating, so it was an exciting drive.  Not to mention that people drive pretty crazy in Cambodia- they drive in the middle of the road, swerve past oncoming cars, cyclists and motorbikes on the side of the road, but will slow for cows. 

We made it to Siem Reap and hung out at the bus station for a bit before a tuk tuk driver from our guesthouse arrived to retrieve us.  As we drove through the city I saw a lot of restaurants and storefronts that looked familiar to when I was in Siem Reap the last time.  We got to our hotel, unpacked our things, and took really long naps, only to wake up for dinner and then go back to sleep a while later.  The next day would begin our three-day Angkor Wat tour, so it was good we got plenty of rest.  It was very hot in Cambodia, and you get tuckered out very quickly. 

We booked a tour guide with a tuk tuk for two days, and then the third day of Angkor Wat we decided to go on our without the guide but we hired the same the tuk tuk driver we’d had the previous two days.  We stayed at a place called Earthwalkers that was recommended to us by a family friend and we really enjoyed it.  It was a little bit out of town and closer to the airport but it took about 15 minutes to get to town by tuk tuk.  It’s Norwegian owned but run by Thais and the couple had a really cute little girl who was probably around 3 who pretty much ran the place with her cuteness.   There was a pool, which was the best after a day walking through dust and getting really sweaty.  Nothing beats a beer in the pool.  

At a gas stop. 

Load up the bikes!

Many older Cambodia women don't usually drive motorbikes or ride bicycles- they are driven by young male family members.  This woman is wearing a pretty typical, traditional outfit- long wrap skirt, light blouse and head scarf called a Karmar.  The scarves are an iconic piece of any Cambodian's wardrobe.  They are made in various sizes, patterns and colors to suit any need.  Men also wear the larger wraps similarly to how women do.  The checkered pattern is the most common design I saw.

Mom's lovin' it.  Notice the glass is empty.  This is after day 1 of ruin-ing.

I can't remember their names but they were quite a pair!  The woman was so sweet and helpful.  Her daughter scooted around the place on the adorable pink motorized bike, like a kids motorbike.  She totally ruled that place.  I think her parents were trying to potty train her, but she was quite resistant- many times I saw her squatting in the bushes near the pool.  HA! 

adventures in thailand

Mother Daughter Adventure Chronicles IIa

On Tuesday April 12th my mom and I set off for Bangkok.  We were to leave for Cambodia later in the day, so to maximize the daytime we visited the Royal Palace- Wat Prae Kaew in the Ratanakosin District in Bangkok.  It was the second time for me, but I was happy to see it again because there are some pretty amazing things to see there such as the Giant Guard Statues at the entrance, the incredibly large golden stupa, and the all of the mural depicting scenes from the Ramayana.  The Emerald Buddha is pretty cool, especially considering its history but it’s actually quite small and the temple is so packed all the time that you sort of just want to get it and see it, then get out.  The first time I went to the Royal Palace it was not so busy or sunny, and this time it was hot and crowded.  We sought shade whenever we could.  

Holy Golden stupa! (On a serious note- historically stupas were/are a tomb of sorts- they hold or cover remains of a monk.)

Given to Thailand by Java

Emerald Buddha is inside this temple

Temple detail.  So many hours of painstaking work to decorate these temples.  The hand painting inside and out of the temples is incredible. 

Hard to tell exactly- but this is Garuda- half man half bird- vehicle of Vishnu.  He adorns many temples.  I'm a big Vishnu and Garuda fan.

We set off for the airport via tuk-tuk to the SARL- or Suvhanabhumi Airport Rail Link, which is the train from the city to the airport.  It was recently finished- I think it has been in use since August or September.  It was a very nice way to get to the airport, and pretty cheap, only a dollar or a couple dollars. 

A few hours later we arrived in Phnom Pehn International Airport in Cambodia.  Customs and visas were just as easy to get through as they were when I flew to the Siem Reap airport with Petey in August.  30 USD, one photo and a 5 minute wait and you’re all set with a Cambodian visa for 30 days.  We took a taxi to our hotel- the Diamond Palace Hotel and took in the city life zooming by on the way.   In Thailand around this time people were getting ready to celebrate the Thai New Year called Songkran, and in Cambodia people were just as busy preparing for their New Year festival during the same time, except in Cambodia it’s the Khmer New Year of course.  We were both in awe at how many people there were, how much construction was going on, and just the overall pulse of this city.  Naked kids getting baths on the sidewalk, kids playing soccer really close to the street, men working to lay sidewalk bricks, folks chit chatting on the sidewalk, something was happening everywhere you looked.  And of course there’s the traffic- so many cars on the road, motorbikes packed with people, dust rising from the streets, and big trucks and vans loaded with people and stuff.  It’s quite a sight.

I booked a room from a website called Agoda.com- check it out- pretty good deals on nice places, and we got settled right away.  Complimentary bottled water, really nice bathroom (with hot water- I always get excited about that because my shower in Rayong is only cold water), air-con, cable tv, and comfy beds.  I was pumped to see some American tv shows, not gonna lie. 

We set off after a bit to explore the streets of our neighborhood.  Not far from our place we saw what looked to be like public housing.  It was a complex of a few apartment buildings that have seen better days.  These buildings were in a certain state of disrepair that did not make you envy that living situation.  This was one of those sights that reminded you that the Khmer Rouge did not end all that long ago, and the current generations are still suffering from the losses.  We continued on our walk and passed a casino, and across the street a family friendly amusing park was in the process of being built.  These were pretty sad sights honestly, and the children sitting outside the casino asking for money did not make this scene easier to bear.  We wanted to get passed that casino as quickly as possible. 

We were in search of food and after taking a wrong turn that just lead us around some dark streets with not much happening, we decided to turn back and eat a chain restaurant of sorts that was near our hotel.  Nothing special about the food, but it got the job done.  We headed back to the hotel and had an Angkor beer and chatted with the guys who keep the place running- two very friendly young Khmer men.  It was quite interesting talking to these guys- they have both been to university and really enjoy working in the service industry because they believe it will open them up to different opportunities.  They practice English and they are appreciative of that.  One of them has worked in a few casinos and really liked the work.  Both asked about where we’ve traveled to and what other countries we’ve been too- it was a sign that after years of oppression the younger folks are ready to get out and see what else is out in the world.  Good for them.

The Mother Daughter Chronicles Part 1

April 9th marked the day my mother, Vicki Matranga, first stepped foot onto Asian soil after years of dreaming to visit.  Saturday night her dreams came true, and for the next 20 days those dreams would continue to be a reality.  I was so happy to share this time with my mom.  It was truly special- a Christmas, birthday, Mother's Day present and then some all rolled into one.  I am so grateful I have such an open-minded, enthusiastic, curious mother who wanted to come visit me so far away.  I was very happy to see her walk down to the meeting point in the Bangkok International Airport (with many bags of course!) and give her a hug after 7 months of no hugs from mom.

We got home to Rayong late Saturday night and we got a ride from a fellow who is friends with a man I teach with.  It was more pleasant to arrive home late and pay a little more than to stay the night in Bangkok and get up early to take a van or bus back to Rayong.  We went to bed very late that night because we got home after midnight, and stayed up too late talking and exchanging gifts and things that she brought me from home.  I gave her a little heart tree ornament to add to her collection that was made by a hilltribe member and a batik tablecloth, and she brought me my beloved skittles, some chako sandals to replace the ones that were lost to the flood, more bugspray, gatorade powder, bars, and other handy stuff.  Thanks mom!

We stayed in Rayong until Tuesday morning and I showed her around town and took her to my usual spots.  We went to Laemtong- my local mall, the Tesco where I buy all sorts of basic needs, we ate dinner at MK (a chain Thai restaurant where you order many different ingredients to cook your own soup- very tasty), walked around the night bazaar, got massages at my favorite spot, and visited a home store that's sort of a mix between Bed, Bath & beyond and Home Depot.  She likes seeing these kinds of stores in other countries and was insistent I have a few household items like mats for my shower.  Gotta love a visit from mom! She'll always remind you you're living like a barbarian. Just kiddin ma...

In Rayong she experienced her first song tao ride, my favorite dinner of chuchi and rice (fish with a curry paste that is specific to my local market), heard nothing but Thai, visited her first Thai Buddhist temple- my local temple of Wat Pa Pradoo, and saw Buddhist worship in action.  She spied her first saffron-robed monks, heard the chimes on the temples, saw people zoom by on motor bikes, line up at all hours of the day and night to buy food from food vendors and sidewalk eateries, and taste her first nam keeng sai ("sweet ice") - thai dessert.  She smelled all the smells of Thailand, saw all the many colors of Thailand and took in the various sounds that make up a day in Thailand.  And the journey had just begun.  Pretty mind-blowing stuff when you look back on it- to think how different one's daily sensory-stimulus intake is coming from the west.

Flower offerings for sale at the night bazaar near Tesco

Night bazaar

First song tao ride

Checking out temple things at Wat Papradoo

Honoring the Reclining Buddha at Wat Papradoo by putting gold stickers on him

Thai dessert at my market- Hornareeka

The smoothie lady I visit quite frequently

One of the laundry ladies!